Cycle Across Cuba

1357 kilometres of stories about cycling across Cuba

Saturday, August 26, 2006

Santiago-Las Tunas, June 30, 214 K.

I started to get the idea in my head that it would't be totally nuts if I rode through Bayamo (the original destination for this day) sometime late the night before. I thought, "I could literally spend most of the day cycling, why not?". I promised myself I would make the actual decision en route because the heat and sun would ultimately decide where I ended up that day. Daisy made me a great breakfast (okay, anytime I get eggs, toast, yogourt and freshly made mango juice, it's a great breakfast), I ate slowly but was eager to get on the road. I hugged her goodbye and told her that I planned to ride again next year, so hopefully we would see eachother in the near future.

Leaving Santiago first thing in the morning feels even busier than Toronto at rush hour downtown; people, cars, motorcycles, bicycles, buses, a VERY busy roundabout to contend with. I even dropped one of my panniers because I hadn't hooked it on properly and had to dodge traffic to retrieve it. At the stop sign in front of the Antonio Maceo monument I asked a guy on his bike how I could get to the highway leading to "La Virgen de la Cobre" Cathedral. Like many times before in Cuba, the young man offered to lead the way past the next set of lights and then a right and quick left. There is no point saying 'No thanks, I can figure it out' as most Cubans are only too happy to help out. Weaving around the side of the road hitchhikers I heard a noise again on the bike: Was in the chain? The derailleur? Maybe the pedals were loose? And suddenly I went to pedal and the whole thing jammed. Uh oh!!! What that heck!????
Okay, okay, relax, it's early just try to let the bike coast and then stop. But when I accidentally went to pedal again, it clicked in perfectly and the noise had stopped. I would give it another 5 K, if not I would turn around and find a mechanic in Santiago. A few big rollers challenged my not yet warmed up self on the way to La Cobre or was it my preoccupation with the bike? Edging toward the cathedral I wondered if I would go back in (we had stopped in on the way to Baracoa) but decided to leave my previous good wished with the saints and continue along to Bayamo. Afterall, if I was going to decide to go straight to Las Tunas, I would need all the extra time possible.

Going past the entrance to La Cobre and wizzing by all the candle, wreath and coconut vendors, there is an eiry yet welcoming feeling. That's the only way I can describe it. I had to shake it off and think about the next town. That's how I ended up crossing all of Cuba. Not thinking of the days' destination but thinking only of the next town I would travel to. In this case it was Palma Soriano, at this point only about 25 K away, but man, I had NO IDEA was those 25 K would be. To be continued...

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